Top 5 Climbs in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado

 


The Bastille Crack

Description to come...please stay tuned.


Yellow Spur

Photo Credit: Dale Remsberg

Description to come...please stay tuned.


Ruper

Photo Credit: Kristie Arend

Ruper is probably the best 5.7/5.8 in the Canyon with varied climbing and steep exposed positions. It is positioned on the main part of the Red Garden wall and sneaks its way up to the top via crack and face climbing.

If someone wants to bump the grade up to 5.9 the second pitch can be diverted onto the Rover Dihedral with an amazing left facing corner that avoids the crux offwidth of Ruper.

Ruper will take 6-8 hours car to car. The descent has two main options with both including complex route finding challenges.


The Wind Tower

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The Wind Tower offers multiple three-star moderate climbs and is a great place to sample Eldorado Canyon for the first time.

Two of the best 5.6 climbs in the Boulder area are on this formation. The Wind Ridge is a must do with three great pitches to the summit on the very left side of the formation.

My favorite 5.6 in Eldo is Calypso, which takes the center part of the formation to the summit. Both climbs could be stretched to the top in 2.5 rope lengths but I like to break them down into 3-4 pitch routes to offer better stances and improved communication.

If you are looking for your first lead in Eldo the right side offers The Bomb at 5.4 with good gear and amazing views of the classic Bastille Crack across the way.


Rewritten

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Description to come. Please stay tuned.